Restaurants

Its not easy for Malaysian food to find a following in London, overshadowed as it is by its crowd-pleasing cousins from India and China. Smart, handsome, expensive Awana in Brompton Cross makes a valiant attempt to promote the cuisine. Starters such as tender and plump chicken satay elicit love at first bite; peppered soft-shell crab with stir-fried greens and chilli jam (ketam lembut lada hitam) seduces with its fragile textures and intense flavours. Not unlike the wary lover playing it safe, main courses lose the momentum: stir-fried aubergine with sambal chilli (sambal jerong) was bland, its sauce diluted to insipidness. A speciality of braised rib of beef with coconut milk (rendang daging awana) was unobjectionable yet unremarkable, its house-blended spices providing little distinction. Malaysian flatbread (roti canai) was adequately fluffy and chewy, but let down by anaemic accompaniments including a drab dal and a subdued chilli dip. For the fussy Sloane Rangers that frequent the place, Awana is a polite, palatable introduction to Malaysian cooking. If youre more au fait with this cuisine, however, you may be left feeling mildly frustrated.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008