Restaurants

Yakitoria oozes post-industrial chic: it’s all concrete and shiny-black with eau-de-nil chairs and a gorgeous shocking-pink backlit sushi bar. Little wonder it won the Best Design category at the 2006 Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards. Modernity extends to the menu, with ‘fusion’ dishes (such as miso ‘cappuccino’, tofu with Japanese pesto, and pizza sushi) appearing alongside traditional sushi, sashimi and tempura. A standout dish was a daily special of oysters with red saké jelly (made with saké from red rice). Simple-sounding silken tofu with three dressings was spectacularly presented: a trio of tofu cubes on a black rectangular plate, each with a different subtle but flavourful dressing. Our selection of chicken skewers included the heart, liver, skin, wings and minced breast, served with two dipping sauces: simple but well done. Also exemplary was a maki roll with eel, crab, avocado and tobiko (flying fish roe), wrapped in slices of salmon then lightly battered and fried – sounds odd but it worked. Service has improved since the opening, and Yakitoria is popular with glamorous young things. The basement bar has a great saké selection; let the French sommelier talk you through the tipples.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008