London's best review, food and drink news
This offer is available from Thu Mar 6, subject to availability as displayed in the booking interface. Offer includes taxes and excludes service charge. (Offer valid until Jul 31)
This offer is available from Wed May 14, subject to availability as displayed in the booking interface. Offer includes taxes and excludes service charge. (Offer valid until Aug 31)
When it first opened in a futuristic new building in Camden Stables market, we thought Gilgamesh would be tagged for its hubris rather than for its food. After all, with a 50ft (15m) long lapis lazuli bar, epic Babylonian film set decor, miked-up DJs and a jazzy retractable glass roof, there's an awful lot to distract. Nevertheless, Ian Pengelley and his kitchen team have really found their feet and are cooking some of the most consistent, assured and occasionally inspired pan-Asian food in the country. Long elegant platters of sushi (salmon and tuna nigiri) sparkled with freshness and vitality. The scallop siu mai and the crisp, dry, duck spring rolls wouldn't have been out of place in Yauatcha. Thai 'son-in-law' eggs, deep-fried under a shower of coriander, shallots and chilli, were a spicy revelation. Marvellous too was a coconut-rich talapia fish curry that contained baby pea aubergines, fragrant kaffir lime leaves and some stunning smoked trout dumplings. Gilgamesh is often compared to Paris's famous Buddha Bar but you'll eat better here.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
|
|
London's best review, food and drink news
|
|
The best of London in your inbox
Up to the minute picks of the best things to do in London, delivered to your desktop.
|
|
Arrived half an hour ahead of booking time and were ushered to a table where we ordered martinis. When they eventually arrived, one was spilt onto the table and sadly both were under- par despite the premium price. It took three quarters of an hour for the concierge to come over and apologise for the wait although we were offered free glasses of champagne as recompense. Inside the venue is undoubtedly impressive, but the restaurant itself is let down by the quality of food, which frankly borders on average. Sea bass sashimi was sinewy despite the theatrical 'dry-ice' presentation. Don't order the tempura which was little better than standard chip-shop quality - far too soggy under the initial batter (we sent it back once but the replacement was little better). Our Chablis was served warm but on request a suitable ice bucket was presented. Staff were polite and reassuringly apologetic, especially when the dessert we ordered was unavailable and had to be substituted. On the whole, the food was substandard but the ambience and service were acceptable, although we shall be unlikely to return (despite living just round the corner!).