Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill

Irish chef Richard Corrigan (of famed British restaurant Lindsay House) relaunched this old-timer a couple of years ago, and it’s been a great success. Still occupying the same lovely Victorian building that it’s been in for more than 90 years, Bentley’s is a popular haunt for besuited gents; women were conspicuous by their absence on our lunchtime visit, but it’s not stuffy or overly masculine. The oyster bar on the ground floor is the more relaxed space with its red leather banquettes, elegant scallop lights and marble-topped bar; the grill on the first floor (comprising three separate rooms) is smarter, with a blue and white colour scheme, polished oak flooring and crisp linen. Premium-quality oysters are almost compulsory, but there’s much to please on the bar menu, from lighter dishes (shellfish bisque, Atlantic prawns with egg mayonnaise, salmon tartare) to more substantial fare (fish pie, smoked haddock with greens and potatoes). Prices are Mayfair-high, but ingredients and cooking are generally first-rate – our only complaint was with a dessert of pale pink spring rhubarb that was barely cooked. The grander grill menu offers the likes of sauté of lobster and West Cork beef. The globetrotting wine list is a treat, specialising in small regional producers. The maître d’ was peerless on our visit, but other staff had a vague, distracted air.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Booking essential
Disabled: toilet
Dress code: smart casual; no shorts
Function room: Separate rooms for parties, seating 14 and 60

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