Restaurants

Lucky Wanstead to have Applebee’s. The look is modern with a Mediterranean feel, enhanced by orange mosaic tiles; the atmosphere is relaxed; the service is friendly and expert. The menu favours fresh fish – scallops, prawns, crab, sea bass, tuna – but there is plenty to excite a carnivore’s palate too. From a wide-ranging wine list, a fine, reasonably priced bottle of Nero d’Avola arrived with amuse-bouches of red pepper mousse on balsamic, setting the tone for a memorable meal. Smoked mackerel mousse piped on to new potatoes arrived with a creamy, mozzarella-filled tomato, countering the salty fish well. Beef carpaccio was as fine a cut as we’ve tasted, complemented by sweet roasted tomatoes. The faultless cooking continued with chunky, moist halibut that had been poached in red wine, served with saffron potatoes and grilled asparagus, and excellent ribeye married well with nutty truffle mash and grilled artichokes. With no room for dessert (plenty of berries, brûlées and chocolate), we were still happy to see the mini pastry cases filled with choux cream, each topped with a blueberry, that came with coffee. Prices are remarkably fair for food this good, and the set menus are a steal.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008