Restaurants

Drones is a place very much at ease with itself, providing a sense of the good life for diners outside the immediate area and a home from home for wealthy Belgravia regulars who frequent the place like a gilded canteen. The decor is suitably sumptuous, with brown leather seats, bronzed walls, thick white tablecloths, tall aspidistras and, everywhere, black and white photos of stars from the 1950s. Occasionally you find the odd buffer, ordering from memory from the wine list but, in general, the diners are interesting, colourful and varied, making for a surprisingly fun, friendly atmosphere. The food is remarkably good too, served in a French style but with recognisably British components: shredded crab piled high; dense duck liver pâté with tart cumberland sauce; savoury pink calf’s liver; tender Welsh lamb. All the ingredients were of outstanding quality: fresh and full of the right flavours. Cheeses are English too, served with Bath Oliver biscuits, and no French cheese or baguettes to be seen. If you get the chance, look at the unique Michael Winner room downstairs and try not to let the good-humoured French staff see you smile.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008