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A year after its launch, Kavannas combination of authentic Indian spicing and kosher meat is still very much in demand. On a weekday evening the waiters were relaxed enough to stop and chat, explaining how the creamy dishes are created using soya milk and yoghurt instead of cows milk and cream. Crisp white linen tablecloths add an elegant note and the cooking (by an Indian chef) is competent, with a well-judged balance of garlic, turmeric and chilli and thick, slowly simmered sauces. Onion bhajis were crisp and nicely spiced, while a starter of red tandoori chicken was almost big enough to serve as a main course. Theres a good array of baltis, sizzling grills and birianis, with plenty of vegetarian options. Chicken jalfrezi with green peppers, served with pilau rice, was rich and full of flavour, although the lamb in a smooth, creamy almond sauce could have been more tender. Sweet peshwari nan, stuffed with almonds, coconut and sultanas, provided some consolation. End with mango sorbet or, in winter, a warm bowl of kheer (saffron-tinged rice pudding).
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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