Restaurants

A Crouch End institution, beloved of families, Banners sports its boho credentials proudly. World music plays in the background, a glass of tap water incurs a 15p donation to WaterAid, and the menu cover is a childs colourful drawing. At weekends, grown-ups talk playground politics and tackle the famous fry-up, while their offspring devour burgers, pasta or the kids meze plate. After dark, when the lights dim, the wooden tables fill with convivial locals and wine-quaffing escapee parents. The concertedly global menu ranges from haddock fish cakes to jerk chicken and malay pumpkin curry, but the adventurous flavour combinations dont always come off. Wasabi mayonnaise was too fierce a pairing for subtly spiced goan fish cakes (from the specials board), and garlic-marinated chips proved inedibly potent. Portions are generous. A thai red curry brimmed with plump, shell-on king prawns. Service can be high-handed; even though plain chips quickly appeared to replace the garlic versions, the waitress radiated disapproval (well, they are garlic chips). The evening ended with French chansons and a huge slice of mango and white chocolate cheesecake which sweetened us up for the long wait for the bill.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008