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This long-lived bar-restaurant is a polished affair, where gleaming wood meets sleek service and accomplished cooking. Its popularity is partly down to the setting – an attractive Victorian conversion, with riverside windows along one side that are perfect for viewing sunsets and the Boat Race – but it’s raised its game in the past year. The bar has more of a buzz (and good cocktails) and the cooking makes deft use of top-notch, seasonal ingredients. Fish and seafood are a forte: grilled Manx kipper appeared among the starters, while a main of succulent grilled mackerel was perfectly matched with tomato and olive salsa, fennel and samphire. Or how about roast pork belly with shiitake broth and steamed chinese greens? And it’s hard to turn down a side order of broccoli zinged up with ginger, garlic and chilli. Oh, and the wine list is a winner too. A shame there are no outside tables next to the Thames, but there is a sunny patio in the cobbled front courtyard instead. With Saturday brunch and Sunday roasts, they’ve got every angle covered.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
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London's best review, food and drink news
I'm a decent sort with a sense of humour and a fair education, like watching Sport and Travelling, but equally happy sitting down with a good book...
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This restaurant has improved so much over the last 12 months; the food is really delicious and very good value for the quality, the menu is varied and the staff are friendly and unusually competent. Having originally been disappointed with how the decor was changed (brown, lime and orange striped banquettes are just not my idea of elegant) I have been surprised and delighted for the last four or five visits and can only warmly recommend this already very busy place. When I made a mistake with my own order, the dish was knocked off the bill, where else would you find that kind of generosity?! Very impressed! Excellent for a local restaurant.