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Located on the first floor of the Royal Institute of British Architects’ headquarters, this brasserie is run by Charlton House Catering. Most diners are business lunchers, appreciating the grand surroundings. The setting is terrific: gorgeous curved couches inside, and a delightful roof terrace for summer. Parasol-topped tables are surrounded by zinc planters and a water feature, with an apt backdrop of mixed-period buildings. Breakfast, salads and sandwiches are offered alongside a lunch menu of Modern European classics. It’s a shame all the effort appears to have gone into presentation (painstaking arrangements on oversized white crockery) rather than the food. Greek salad with olive and feta tarte tatin was fine, but pricey at £10.50 for what was largely salad leaves. Goat’s cheese tart with aubergine caviar featured a generous disc of cheese atop nicely flaky pastry, but the artichoke tasted sharp and the aubergine smears were more embellishment than nourishment. Fancy desserts include chocolate pyramids with good raspberry ice-cream, but poached rhubarb comprised cold, almost-raw sticks in syrup, topped with toothpaste-tasting mint sorbet. Waitresses favoured the suits before serving others. A great spot, let down by uninspired corporate catering and unprofessional service.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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