Restaurants

Still one of the prettiest dining rooms in town after its 2005 makeover (design by David Linley with delicate, exquisite Swarovski chandeliers), the Goring continues to please in other areas too. Staff are a smooth bunch in very natty uniforms, and the monthly changing menu is a treat to read. For every classic dish (chilled watercress soup, dover sole, raspberries with cream), theres one thats a little bit different: a trait exemplified by the inclusion of hogweed (a slightly scratchy but intriguing-tasting plant) among the vegetables. Isle of Sheppey wild rocket with goats cheese, apple and celery salad was an undemanding starter. Punchier was roast bone marrow with breadcrumbs, parsley and toasted onion bread. Cod, chips and peas (a special) was a top-notch version, and a large steak and kidney pie with creamed potatoes disappeared just as rapidly. Custard tart with nutmeg ice-cream made a fine finale. Theres a long wine list and accompanying sommelier. Judging by its performance over the past year, the Goring has made the transition into the 21st century with aplomb.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008