Restaurants

The Goring Hotel’s well-judged version of modern Englishness – grand over grandiose, service over servility – suits its restaurant well. It’s a gracious, light-filled corner room, decorated (by Lord Linley, no less) largely in white, the only showy element the branching modern chandeliers from Swarovski. The menu arranges top-quality British ingredients from Scotland to Cornwall into ostensibly simple combinations. On the plate, things are more complex: each flavour teased out by whatever technique or accompaniment best does the job, including some elusive spicing. Sea bass is steamed then teamed with chive sauce, jerusalem artichokes are roasted in their skins, goat’s cheese souffléd. The only slip on our recent visit was in the beef wellington, which was surprisingly soggy. Puddings and British cheeses are wheeled round on a trolley. Everything, wines included, was served with ceremony, by a team led by restaurant manager Stuart Geddes, who deserves mention for his assured conviviality and the atmosphere he fosters, enjoyed by a diverse but uniformly appreciative clientele.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009