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There’s a lot to like here, from the super-attentive maître d’ (who worked the small room like it was the Ivy) to the fact there was no pressure to leave, even though the restaurant was packed all evening. The slightly wild decor – dark green paint, even on the floor, and talking-point lights made by Thomas Heatherwick from plug chains – is a welcome change after so many identikit interiors. Chef-owner Oliver Rowe’s menu doesn’t play safe either. About 90 per cent of the ingredients come from within reach of the tube network ( not from within the M25 as has been widely reported), and wines come from no farther afield than Europe, with plenty of English bottles on the list. The sourcing policy results in dishes like pan-fried Mersea plaice with braised spring onions, potatoes and beurre blanc, or Waltham Abbey chicken with braised chicory and goat’s cheese spätzle. Dishes don’t always deliver; nettle and crème fraîche tart with leek, mushroom and parsley salad had a sloppy filling and a taste so delicate it was scarcely there. But mostly they do, and in some instances (a very moreish starter of beer-battered herring roe with mustard sauce) they’re excellent. Konstam is very much not resting on its laurels.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
London's best review, food and drink news
This restaurant was truly amazing. I had to take a group from work of 28 for a meal somewhere in Kings Cross and reviews were almost all good for this place so I decided to try it. And I was not disappointed! The decor here is beautiful - it really separates the place from the streets outside.
The set menu was amazing (and for what you get I guess the price is expected) and very diverse - the pigeon was scrumptious for starter, the lamb very tenderly cooked and having barley with it was a first, and a very nice treat at that. I'm only sorry I didn't get a chance to taste the desert menu - esp the blueberry ice cream . The presentation of the food was very artistic and it was quite unusually fun to have the kitchen situated in the main seating area.
Only problem was finding the place as its not that easy to spot or get to. One taxi couldn't find it that evening and so one guest unfortunately missed a treat!