Restaurants

Peak times at this much-loved Kenwood institution may seem chaotic, but that’s just the customers. Look carefully and you’ll see staff working like a well-oiled machine. It’s an impressive set-up. The daily changing – albeit firmly structured – menu will feature some sort of gourmet sausages (and for once they are) served with gravy and roast veg, plus a hot dish (maybe lamb shanks) and something quichey. Locals frequently opt for the wholesome package deal on soup (say white bean and tomato) with bread, apple and a piece of cheese. Look in the self-serve cabinets for plump sandwiches that put the West End chains to shame: think superior ham with honey and caper mayonnaise, coronation chicken, egg and cress. Sweets cover everything from breakfast pastries too boozy indulgences such as our rather jammy sherry trifle. We’ve enjoyed the creamy papaya and rhubarb fools here on other visits too. To drink there’s Marston’s beer, small bottles of wine, San Pellegrino soft drinks, Union coffee and (over by the window) big jugs of water for everyone to help themselves. Come early for the legendary cooked breakfasts featuring those fabulous sausages, lush grilled mushrooms, roast tomatoes, admirably creamy scrambled eggs and wholesome toast.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009