Restaurants

As far as afternoon teas go, this stunning 18th-century building offers a quintessentially English experience. Formidable white Corinthian pillars and marble statues lend the room a certain grandeur, but the piles of tempting own-made cakes, chirpy regulars and tourists basking in the beams of natural light chisel away some of the severity. If only they could have melted the frostiness of the waiting staff too. Still, we enjoyed the signature Orangery cake: a creamy orange cake with lashings of frosting, offering a burst of citrus and sunshine in every bite. Less stellar was the lemon meringue pie, which tasted as unappealing as it looked – the crust stale and the curd lacking zing. Most visitors opt for tea and cake, but the lunch menu is a compendium of tempting soups, salads and mains. The list of teas includes all the favourites, but also unusual brews such as quality leaves from England’s first tea plantation, Tregothnan Estate, and Indian tulsi mint.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009