Restaurants

The relentless expansion of the Maroush empire which includes the Maroush restaurants, Ranoush juice bars and newcomer Sidi Maarouf (a departure from the Middle East to North Africa) continues apace. This former corner-pub site just up from Kensington High Street is where it ditches the jacket and tie and slips into something a little more casual. Service remains formal and smiles are tightly rationed, but theres a modish open kitchen, a mezzanine with smoked-glass floor that speaks of a fat cheque to a design agency, and chairs upholstered in primary colours. Its a pleasant, non-Middle Eastern setting for a familiar Maroush menu. The food is as reliably good as at the companys long-established businesses on the Edgware Road. Highlights of a recent visit included melt-in-the-mouth cheese sambousek with lovely light pastry, dense falafel with a good crunch to the outside (served with a light tahina sauce), and smooth houmous. Knuckle of lamb was generous and tender and shouldnt be attempted by anyone who has overindulged in meze.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008