Restaurants

Every night of the week, this family-run trat is packed with Balham folk who know just what to expect: welcoming, cheerful service and generous portions of cheap, no-nonsense Italian food. The pizzas are one of the main attractions. There are few trendy ingredients here; instead, just reliable toppings and combos weve all heard of, such as napoletana, margherita and fiorentina all on thin, crisp bases. Weve always found the pasta properly al dente too, and sauces such as the penne alarrabiatta have just the right amount of kick, flavour and texture. The wine list is modestly priced, but this is one area in which Ciullos needs to improve: with lots of exciting new Italian producers making great affordable wines, Ciullos has a lot of plonk concealing the odd decent bottle. It isnt exactly Milanese in its approach to design and fashion either: although established in 2004, its straight out of the 1980s. Newcomers such as nearby Raviolo are now making Ciullos look like a much loved but rusty old Fiat in comparison to a polished Alfa Romeo.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008