Restaurants

Via Condotti lies opposite the Vivienne Westwood shop and right next to Rigby & Peller, but this lively restaurant is not the preserve of ladies who lunch. Our midday visit saw a buzzy mix of shoppers and businessmen enjoying the efficient, smiling service and fine cooking. The smart yet relaxing decor features vintage advertising posters and neat leather chairs reminiscent of the art deco period. Lovely chunks of crumbly parmigiano reggiano were quickly brought to the table. So too were fat, nutty-tasting olives that looked like dark green apples, and a generous, varied bread basket. Paper-thin slicing on the mandolin turned worthy carrot, celery and radish into an elegant topping for sea bass carpaccio. Delicate tubes of own-made wholemeal pasta served with spring vegetables and marjoram also demonstrated the kitchen’s perfect judging of texture. Being picky? The red mullet was a tad too dry, though delicious served with a fennel-flavoured brodetto and clams. No complaints about roast rack of lamb with thin mild green peppers, a crisp side of sautéed escarole, the lovely petits fours or the macchiato coffee. Carefully practised attention to detail makes Via Condotti one of the West End’s brightest jewels.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008