Restaurants

Paper tablecloths, utilitarian glasses and a full view of the kitchen live up to the café name, but that’s where similarities with humble workers’ canteens end. Prices at this famous establishment are steep, but match the freshness and seasonality of perfectly cooked Mediterranean food that never fails to impress. Starters are imaginative yet uncontrived, letting the gleamingly fresh ingredients (baby broad beans, creamy buffalo mozzarella, fresh anchovies) speak for themselves. A few dishes are rooted in Italian tradition, such as linguine with sardines and fennel: clearly inspired by a typical Sicilian recipe. But the chefs generally play with flavour blending, which culminated in a zingy combination of pan-fried pork drizzled with olive oil and basil on our last visit. While the celebrated chocolate nemesis is a must-try for chocoholics, other desserts – such as grilled nespole (apricot-like fruits) accompanied by a delicate custard – are no less tempting. The mostly Italian wine list is far from daunting, because the wines are handily listed according to their regional provenance. Service is friendly and informal, yet knowledgeable and impeccable. The riverside setting and outside tables, when available, are the ultimate treat for leisurely weekend lunches.

Unfortunately, The River Café will be shut until September 2008 due to a fire in April.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008