Restaurants

West Londoners and fans from further afield have just endured an entire summer without their favourite alfresco spot – the legendary River Café has been shut for (another) refit. As we went to press, the already delayed reopening was scheduled for September. The open kitchen was being renovated, a private dining room and cheese room were being added, and some changes made to the reception, but the dining room is to be more or less the same. No doubt Chris and Gwynnie, Amanda Wakeley and the rest will rush back for – ooh, well, in the autumn the wood-roast fish could be dover sole with lemon and capers, fine green beans and parsley. Or you could opt for wild sea bass cooked in a sea salt crust and served at room temperature with fennel, courgette, swiss chard and aïoli. Seasonal starters and pastas always prompt a bit of negotiation over who will have the buffalo mozzarella with black figs, purple basil and purslane; the bruschetta of Devon crab; or the fresh tagliatelle with girolles, garlic and parmesan. But the produce-based menu changes twice daily, so there are no guarantees. The sensible wine list (try a chilled red) and the riverside setting are two more of the River Café’s many charms.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009