Restaurants

Bringing life and character to another shiny glass and steel development of plush goldfish-bowl flats can't be easy, but Marco Polo has a good go, boosted by its verdant river views. By day, the adjoining nursery that spills on to the new-sown grass of this Thames-side site must lend a touch of chaotic humanity. Yet although the restaurant may be austere in design, the staff are anything but stiffs. The three waiters who came and went from our table joked readily, sang along to canned music and absent-mindedly misplaced orders. So if you're out to impress the boss, beware. But if the boss is a three-year-old child, you'll find the place pleasingly informal. Although said child's pizza came late, not as ordered and then burnt, forgiveness came as easily as reparation. Abundant antipasti included a good salmon carpaccio, while a fine spread of pasta ranged from excellent seafood variations to good ol' spag bol. Veal with lemon and capers is among the main courses. Desserts are mostly of the typical Italian kind, although banoffee pie was a dependable kid-pleaser. Being given wine to taste before ordering made the service charge easier to pay.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008