Restaurants

Staff need to be skinny to bob and weave through the cramped tables in the basement of this otherwise pleasant local; the problems come when customers try to move. One couple left after just a few minutes, such was the difficulty of being squeezed into the tiny space. Upstairs is a little more serene without the open kitchen, but only slightly more spacious. The sensible wine list starts at £13.50 a bottle, glasses at £4; we found the white better than the red. Herb risotto with scallops had a good buttery finish, with just the right degree of camphoric rosemary flavour. Rolls of savoy cabbage were stuffed with sausage meat and served with wedges of caramelised apple and a coulis-style pepper sauce – surprisingly tasty. Desserts disappointed. There was a pretty panna cotta flavoured with grappa and set with raspberries, but we ordered bonet (chocolate and amaretti pudding), which had the texture of a wet jumper, and a truly stingy portion (a small scoop and a half) of zabaione and gianduja ice-creams served with the tiniest cat’s tongue biscuits. Staff were very pleasant. Working harder isn’t the issue here, it’s the need to work smarter.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008