Restaurants

Hidden away in the gastronomic wasteland of Kentish Town, unassuming Pane Vino keeps quietly serving pleasant Mediterranean food with a Sardinian flavour to a crowd of faithful regulars. During our visit service was so unfriendly it verged on the robotic, and not all dishes were available, but the food offered was of remarkable quality and reasonable value, making up for the disappointments. As well as pizza (unavailable on our visit), the menu specialises in the cornerstones of Sardinian cuisine: moreish linguine with bottarga (dried grey mullet roe) and parsley; and satisfying malloreddus (like little gnocchi but made from semolina) dressed in a pork-sausage sauce. A starter of grilled sardines on a bed of rocket and pane carasau (the traditional bread of Sardinian shepherds) was so fresh and zingy it made us forgive the lengthy wait for it to be served. The dessert list somewhat surprisingly forsakes traditional Sardinian sweets, but features timeless classics such as a suitably wobbly panna cotta with red fruit compote.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008