Restaurants

The ‘Caffè’ part of the name is misleading. This is a fully-fledged Italian restaurant with prices to prove it – even if it isn’t as fully-fledged as its mother, Caldesi, up the alley. Located over a bar in the heart of Marylebone, Caffè Caldesi attracts a younger cross-section of the continental yuppies who work, rest and play hereabouts. The restaurant itself is bright and airy, with many of the tables by windows festooned with exploding flower boxes. Staff speak Italian with little encouragement, as if to vouch for the authenticity of cooking drawn from all over the peninsula (though centred on Tuscany). Starters aren’t just run of the mill Italian dishes; cuttlefish in tomato and chilli sauce was a good thick fishy pleasure, while imaginative pastas included ravioli with a nice sticky duck ragù. Three types of fish and five types of meat follow; we had no complaints about the veal, asparagus, mash and truffle oil – except its upper-end price of £19. The wine list is also confidently priced, but covers a wholly desirable Italian spectrum.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008