Restaurants

Cottons has long set London’s benchmark for West Indian cooking. Both branches attract a smart set of Caribbean connoisseurs, although it’s this outlet that’s currently pulling in the cool crowd. Polished wood, plantation-style shutters and brightly coloured paintings give the venue an updated colonial look. The real head-turner, however, is the long, sleek bar, stocking over 150 rums from around the world. Cottons’ menu contains all the usual traditional dishes, from jerked meats and Trinidadian fish curry, to rice and peas and fried plantain. A starter of sweet potato and callaloo tart desperately lacked the help of the sort of spiced-sweet chutney that accompanied the saltfish fritters. Yet any lack of heat was made up for with the mixed jerk meat grill, which packed a serious punch. The traditional goat curry was similarly fiery, paving the way for cans of thirst-quenching ginger beer. Those of sterner stuff should drop by the basement Rhum Jungle Bar: a dining area until 9pm, when it hosts club nights and live music.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009