Restaurants

Boisdale’s central London branch inevitably draws a more diverse crowd than the City outlet, though both share a Scottish menu and decor, and a focus on whisky and jazz, as well as a high quotient of business diners. Here a light-filled room is buzzing at lunch and positively hopping at night. Central to the menu is 21-day matured Scottish beef, served in a variety of cuts (costing £19.50-£36) with a choice of accompaniments. The rest of the menu is also pricey, though there are deals to be had, and portions are large. Cooking is good though not stellar; some (imported) asparagus served with a sea bass was singed, and green beans were swimming in butter. Excellent haggis with a noggin of Famous Grouse similarly suffered from butter-heavy mash and neeps. Still, diners aren’t here for the comforting cuisine alone – though perhaps some come for the bread and butter pudding with brandy custard. It’s the whole package that appeals, from the personable but efficient service through to the merrily unfashionable decor: all dark red and green tartan, hunting scenes and trophy heads. Havana cigars can still be purchased, but since the smoking ban can only be smoked at the outdoor bar tables.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008