Restaurants

Though the fledgling branch at Victoria Park proved ill-fated (it has now closed), the original Mar i Terra survives for business as usual. It occupies a cosy converted pub betwixt the railway arches of Southwark. Sanded-down dark wood is the key aesthetic within, and the original, mirror-backed bar has been mercifully retained – just two of the draws that have earned the place a loyal following among local workers. On the menu, there are no real surprises among the chorizo and calamares, except for a couple of regional niceties such as espinacas a la catalana (spinach sautéed with pine nuts and raisins) and chipirones a la vizcaina (baby squid in a tomato sauce). Most dishes we tried were properly cooked, hearty and tasty; we forgave the rather parched meat in a tapa of rabbit casserole. Prices are refreshingly modest, especially given the proximity of costlier dining hotspots at Borough Market and the South Bank. Not one to cross town for, perhaps, but as somewhere for a good-value meal in relaxing surrounds, Mar i Terra is a well-kept secret well worth sharing.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008