Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 26 2012
Perched like a glass birdcage above Borough Market, Roast’s window-lined first-floor dining room – all high ceilings, white table linen, fine glassware, piano player at the bar, attentive waiters – makes a serene contrast to the mêlée of the market below, an oasis of leisurely dining above London’s temple of haute street food. The grand space has in the past slightly outclassed the occasionally stodgy food.
But a new chef, New Zealander Marcus Verberne, has started to adapt the menu to its surroundings while staying true to British roots. It won’t win awards for innovation, but a starter of sautéed mushrooms on brioche was perfectly prepared and came with a dainty poached quail’s egg balanced on top. Take a hint from the restaurant’s name and go for a traditional roast for main course.
Pork belly was meltingly tender and rich, nicely offset by apple sauce. Satisfying roast beef with yorkshire pudding and all the trimmings was a mile away from the grey mess sometimes found at old boozers. Puddings are equally time-honoured. In such a spectacular space, some diners might long for a bit of pzazz in the food, but traditionalists won’t be disappointed.
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