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Nestled on Canary Wharf’s stark waterfront, this branch of the Cantonese restaurant looks glamorous against the modernist-esque riverside. It’s big and airy inside – there are hanging lanterns, golden decorations, and plenty of mirrors strapped to the walls.
The food is delicious. The vegetable dim sum was fragrant and light, spiked with crunchy bean sprouts. The satay chicken arrived neatly arranged on skewers ,with a generous bowl of stupendously nutty satay sauce. A larger dish of ‘Shaolin Monks’ vegetables came in a cavernous, clay pot – a bubbling broth with baby sweetcorn, pak choi, rice noodles and tofu. It was smoky, earthy, and fresh – like the organic scents wafting from a north London allotment. The roast duck Cantonese-style, too, was majestic, with tender slabs of meat slathered in moreish plum sauce. Even dessert – not always a strong suit in Cantonese restaurant – was worthy of rave reviews. Freshly battered banana fritters were sesame-studded on the outside, revealing molten fruit at their centres. Portions are generous, the prices reasonable.
Still, this Royal China has its pitfalls. On a stuffy summer evening, we weren’t allowed to sit outside, which put a dampener on the experience. The service, while prompt, was also fairly brusque. The food may be tremendous: just don’t expect much hospitality.