Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
Ah, if the pictures of Polly Fitzroy and Laura Honey, two long-forgotten Victorian dancers, could talk… Rules has been accumulating its indescribable collection of prints, paintings, hunting trophies and other knick-knacks to look down on its diners since 1798. London’s oldest restaurant attracts plenty of tourists, but is no tourist trap, retaining an admirable brio and sense of quality. The velvet booths are delightfully comfortable, service is both chattily welcoming and very on-the-ball. Superlative roast beef (a hefty £32 per person) and game (in season, from Rules’ own Pennine estate) are specialities, but other dishes are impressive too. Roast quail salad with apple and turnip was a delicately meaty opener; classic smoked salmon arrived with exceptional own-baked bread. The quality of the meats, full-flavoured but delicately prepared, was again a highlight of saddle of rabbit with bayonne ham, and belly of lamb with asparagus and offset by lovely goat’s curd ravioli. Desserts are not neglected either: fresh raspberries were served with an exquisite pink champagne sorbet, and the very proper summer pudding was delicious. Not a cheap spot – though the Rhone Valley-oriented wine list is reasonably priced by current West End standards – but a charming choice for an indulgent meal.
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