Santoré seems to divide opinion: some diners can’t get enough of its authentic Neapolitan food; others can’t forgive the occasionally tetchy service. On our most recent midweek visit, however, we were greeted warmly by the staff who happily recommended their favourite dishes on the menu. The place was packed with diners. As with many a good trattoria, the decor – unspectacular brown furniture with wine bottles and a pizza oven for decoration – means little compared to the food.
A generous plate of antipasti included at least ten items (from a moreish warm aubergine salad to own-cured salmon with pink peppercorns) – and was a gift at £8.95. ‘I panuozzi’ pizza, where the dough is first baked and then filled (in our case, with spring greens, mozzarella and porky fennel sausage), was simply delicious if just slightly burnt. Fresh fusilli pasta with clams and succulent Sicilian prawns was brilliantly spicy. Only the desserts of own-made tiramisu and sorbets were average. We’re inclined to forgive the uneven service for such big-hearted food and prices.