Sauterelle

Time Out says

Tue Oct 16 2012

Set on the mezzanine level of the swanky Royal Exchange complex, the interior windows of this stylish restaurant look down on the indoor piazza below, while those on the exterior look across to the grand Old Lady of Threadneedle Street. Despite the location, the atmosphere is relaxed, and favoured by groups of City ladies as well as gents.

A short set menu offered excellent choices. Seared red mullet with pickled fennel, orange and pea shoots was brilliantly set off by a glorious beetroot purée. Salt marsh lamb on borlotti beans, peas and spinach with an aubergine purée was near perfection. The only disappointment was, ironically, a classic French dessert, tarte tatin, which came as an individual tart – a concept that just doesn’t work – and with pastry that was too thin. As one would expect, the wine list is top-notch, with an excellent selection by the glass and carafe. Service was impeccable and very friendly. The only niggle was the over-styled ‘designer’ cutlery, which was uncomfortable to hold and had forks so narrow it was often difficult to get the food off the plate.