Now that restaurants with contemporary Brit/Euro cuisine are two a penny, it’s great to discover one that really stands out. And even better in Stroud Green Road, more known for ultra-cheap eats and African veg stores.
The decor at Season Kitchen is modern-mellow, with subtle greys offset by a cranky collection of old paintings. The multinational staff are warmly friendly, and there’s a likeable generosity about the whole enterprise. Everything is own-made, including the fabulous, no-extra-charge bread (clearly a passion – as soon as we asked about the bread, we were offered the recipe).
Menus, as the name suggests, focus on seasonal ingredients, and are an unpindownable mix of British, Mediterranean and other influences. A winter vegetable terrine had loads of fresh green flavour; in a platter of own-cured meats the duck was superb. An outstanding main course of pulled kid (goat) came with deliciously smooth polenta, rich jus and a powerfully meaty faggot; smoked salmon with crispy seaweed was more conventional, but still very enjoyable. Also, the chips are superlative, the rhubarb and custard doughnuts delectable, and a low mark-up policy on wines provides exceptional bottles at remarkable prices. A place to be celebrated.