Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Mon Oct 15 2012
At lunchtime at least, the long queues that used to discourage visits to this no-phone, no-bookings and not-exactly-large retro American joint have dissipated. The lovely tiles behind the bar are original to the premises, a former butcher’s shop, which partly alleviates the feeling you’re in a theme restaurant: a carefully constructed London take on a New York take on road-food and Italian classics. In fact, you get some rather good-value (for the area), good-hearted cooking. Eggs receive a rare moment in the limelight: soft-boiled, on lentil and anchovy crostini; truffled, on toast; with soldiers; and in the best french toast this side of Chicago (if you like it sugar-sticky). Sliders amp up the flavour; pulled pork inauthentically but deliciously packs in crackling and pickled apple; bone marrow infiltrates ground beef. The fried chicken also holds more interest than it would down home. There are decent salads and desserts and ‘plates’ that include the no frills (mac ’n’ cheese) and the more cultured (good mackerel, saffron and broad beans). Eat at stools at the bar (witness enthusiastic staff at play) or counters at the back (there are no tables as such).
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