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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Thu Mar 22 2012
Danish sushi is not the oxymoron it might at first seem. The Danes are known for liking fish, clean flavours and simple aesthetics, so much so that the Sticks n Sushi chain has nine branches in Copenhagen alone, but have opened their tenth in Wimbledon.
This Anglo SnS is a cavernous space, with a high brick wall on one side, and a huge curtain – printed to exactly match the facing brick wall – on the other. Danish chairs are integral to the design, as are the staff wearing black t-shirts printed with handy Danish words, and their English translations. New arrivals to the restaurant are greeted with what is supposed to be ‘irrashaimase’, the traditional welcome greeting in Japanese restaurants – though the staff pronounce the word so badly, it took us a few repeats to realise what it was.
The menus are beautifully illustrated with photographs. The reason becomes clear on closer study: These are Japanese-lite dishes for people who are scared of real Japanese food. There are no challenging ingredients: no stringy, slimy natto (fermented soy beans); no slithery or gelatinous noodles; no fetid-smelling uni (sea urchin); no yakitori – sticks– of grilled gizzards or duck heart. For many, of course, this is a plus; for others, it strips the samurai soul out of the cuisine.
To their credit, the sushi rice was excellent: warm and of fine quality. The sashimi, too, was fresh enough to serve in Japan. Presentation was consistently beautiful, with excellent use of colour contrasts. The details, such as the dipping sauces and the miso soup, were good quality and made with care.
Perhaps it was just us, but something seemed missing – that sense of adventure, that immersion in another mindset that real Japanese restaurants have. But for sushi novices, this is still a terrific place to start.
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