As sure as night follows day, the ’00s are back: waistbands are lowering to pube-skimming levels as heels shrink down to kittenish height. So it seems only right that Sumosan – a Russian-founded, Japanese stalwart of the ’00s sleb restaurant scene – should make its return. Not a lot has changed, despite a new Italian connection. This is not fusion food – it’s a menu split in two, from the crockery right down to the food. But it’s clear that the love remains on the Japanese side of things; while Italian plates of calamari and ravioli were satisfactory, the Japanese dishes were far better.
The house special sashimi was softly flavoured with truffle that didn’t overwhelm the delicate fish. And with a crunchy sushi-rice base, a good chilli-sauce and bonito powder dusted on top, the salmon pizza was an interesting high point. The seaweed salad didn’t arrive looking like anything you would willingly order but it was woody, deep and dense in flavour.
Service is as split as the menu, flitting between the downright rude and brilliantly flamboyant. Only the glossy interior sticks to a single theme: sleek monochrome, black and white photos, seas of mirrors and a bookcase full of hefty fashion books.