Decor at the Soho branch of Brindisa feels more than a little chain-like: understated and functional, with dark wood furnishings and deep red walls. But this is noticeable only during quiet periods, of which there are few, and is merely a backdrop to the consistently enticing and well-executed menu.
A lunchtime ‘platter’ for two showcased what’s still great about Brindisa tapas, yielding a selection of well-balanced dishes featuring superb ingredients and demonstrating a pleasing avoidance of the standard-issue stodgy or deep-fried fare of many a tapas bar. Our seven dishes included excellent ham croquetas (smooth creamy filling with tender morsels of ham, encased in a crisp exterior); zesty leaves, flecked with walnuts and nutty manchego; and a round of morcilla topped with sweet caramelised onions and roasted peppers. This added up to generous amount of food, and an extra dish of lightly fried monte enebro cheese drizzled with honey was superb, but entirely superfluous.
Brindisa deserves its continuous footfall and always seems to come up with the goods, be it for an informal lunch or a smart dinner date.