The 100 best dishes in London 2012 - Meat

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Sizzling bacon, tender beef and melting fat - discover plates perfect for meat-lovers

Fancy some flesh? Here we have picked out the classic and the modern, the spiced and the plain, not to mention a butchers’ favourite and a spot of game


The best meat dishes in London

  • Heaven and Earth at Hix Soho Heaven and Earth at Hix Soho

    Heaven and Earth at Hix Soho

    £8.95, 66-70 Brewer Street, W1F 9UP

    Given that Mark Hix’s name has become synonymous with British cooking, it may seem odd to highlight, of all things, his interpretation of a German dish (‘Himmel und Erde’). But this mainstay of Hix’s smart Soho restaurant showcases everything that is great about his cooking: ’heaven’ is a soft, gently spiced black pudding, while ‘earth’ combines mashed potato with faintly sweet apple and a hint of onion. It’s thoughtful, yet simple: Hix at his best.

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  • Own-made charcuterie board at the Bull & Last Own-made charcuterie board at the Bull & Last - © Ming Ting Evans

    Charcuterie board at the Bull & Last

    £15, 168 Highgate Road, NW5 1QS

    A perfect platter for the charcuterie-lover, Bull & Last’s own-made offerings range from deliciously umami-packed duck ‘prosciutto’ to chicken liver parfait with a bit of body. There’s fantastic chunky ham hock terrine too, great with the tiny gherkins, and the celeriac remoulade is a good foil for the rich rillettes. Tiny pepper radishes, watercress, chutneys and toast complete the deal at this smart spot.

    Read Bull & Last restaurant review
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  • Salt beef bagel at Brick Lane Beigel Bake Salt beef bagel at Brick Lane Beigel Bake - © Rob Greig

    Salt beef bagel at Brick Lane Beigel Bake

    £3.70, 159 Brick Lane, E1 6SB

    For decades, Brick Lane Beigel Bake has been serving up this signature Jewish snack: a big chunk of just-cooked juicy salt beef, sitting on a chewy fresh plain bagel, optionally spiked with some eye-wateringly strong mustard – all for less than £4. No pickles, tables, or standing on ceremony, just a pure, perfect salt beef bagel. Well worth queuing for.

    Read Brick Lane Beigel Bake restaurant review
  • Wiener Schnitzel at The Delaunay Wiener Schnitzel at The Delaunay - © David Loftus

    Wiener Schnitzel at The Delaunay

    £19.75, 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB

    Life is full of difficult dilemmas, such as: which is The Delaunay’s best dish? Torn between the excellent sachertorte and the perfect wiener schnitzel, we had to choose the latter. Wiener schnitzel is boneless veal beaten to a thin layer with a mallet, breadcrumbed and fried. It appeared in every mid-20th-century cookbook, then fell out of fashion. But it’s back, one of many Mitteleuropäisch dishes revived by the wonderful Delaunay - a dish that would put a smile on even Sigmund Freud’s stern face.

    Read The Delaunay restaurant review
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  • Bacon naan at Dishoom Bacon naan at Dishoom

    Bacon naan at Dishoom

    £3.70, 12 Upper St Martin's Lane, WC2H 9FB

    A bit of an in-joke of a dish, considering pig is rarely eaten by most of the population of India, but at the same time a perfect representation of British-Asian fusion. A take on a classic bacon buttie, the Dishoom version comprises freshly made naan encasing grilled back bacon, a slick of chilli-tomato chutney, yoghurt and sprigs of coriander. The Indian components add freshness to an otherwise heavy breakfast dish, the slightly charred naan a great pairing with the smoky slices of pork. To accompany this dish, a builder’s brew just won’t do – opt for a glass of masala chai instead.

    Read Dishoom restaurant review
  • The Kiwiburger at Gourmet Burger Kitchen The Kiwiburger at Gourmet Burger Kitchen - © Peter Cassidy

    The Kiwiburger at Gourmet Burger Kitchen

    £8.95, 44 Northcote Road, SW11 1NZ

    There’s no shortage of newcomers vying for the title of London’s best burger chain. But we have to pay our respects to the Kiwis and Gourmet Burger Kitchen for beginning London’s gourmet burger trend in 2001, and for offering a burger that looks and tastes so much better than it might sound. The Kiwiburger has it all: robust Aberdeen Angus beef patties and beetroot, egg, pineapple and aged Cheddar cheese – yes, all together – combining to create picture-perfect burgers housed in freshly baked sesame-seed sourdough buns with acres of lush lettuce. Vegetarians are kept happy too, with an aubergine and goat’s cheese version.

    Read Gourmet Burger Kitchen restaurant review
  • Shortrib French dip at Hawksmoor Bar Shortrib French dip at Hawksmoor Bar - © Ed Marshall

    Shortrib French dip at Hawksmoor bar

    £10, Hawksmoor Spitalfields, 157 Commercial Street, E1 6BJ

    One of our top ten dishes
    There are many reasons for visiting any of Hawksmoor’s three branches, but if you’re in for cocktails rather than a three-course, beef-based blowout and merely need some sustenance, then go French. This is sandwich perfection – braised shortrib with Ogleshield Jersey cow’s milk cheese, layered in a slightly sweet finger roll, served with an order of mahogany marrow gravy, which is the delicious dip.

    Read Hawksmoor restaurant review
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  • Persian fesenjân at Kateh Persian fesenjân at Kateh - © Rob Greig

    Persian fesenjân at Kateh

    £14, 5 Warwick Place, W9 2PX

    Kateh is comfortable without being overpriced, a good showcase for the rich, complex cooking of the Persians. If you’re looking for the essence of the cuisine, try the pheasant stew (fesenjân gharghavol). Walnuts were first cultivated in Persia, and when cooked with pomegranate paste (another Iranian signature flavour) give a characteristically rich and sour-sweet sauce. The pheasant meat is dark and strong enough not to be overpowered by the sauce, and the resulting dish is a masterpiece.

    Read Kateh restaurant review
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  • The charcuterie at Terroirs The charcuterie at Terroirs

    The charcuterie at Terroirs

    £7.50, 5 William IV Street, WC2N 4DW

    We’re not saying Terroirs makes the very best charcuterie in London; we reckon Bar Boulud would see off any competition in that regard. Nevertheless, if you eat at this delightful wine bar, do make sure you try the cooked meats. The pistachio and pork terrine in particular is first-class: unctuous and flavour-packed, with appealing textures. The tapas-style bar snacks (Marcona almonds, cheeses) and plats du jour are also appealing.

    Read Terroirs restaurant review
  • Rump and confit belly of Herdwick lamb at Lamberts Rump and confit belly of Herdwick lamb at Lamberts - ©

    Rump and confit belly of Herdwick lamb at Lamberts

    £18, or from £25 when part of a set meal, 2 Station Parade, Balham High Road, SW12 9AZ

    The trickiest thing about recommending a dish at Lamberts is the frequency with which the menu is changed. One perennial favourite, though, is the two-ways Herdwick lamb. Slices of pink-middled rump are served alongside a full-flavoured confit of belly, with a warm slice of buttery, thyme-spiked potato terrine, smoked, honey-glazed garlic, and a delicate thyme foam. It’s a heavenly composition, but don’t fret if it’s not on the menu: the cooking at this Balham star always shines.

    Read Lamberts restaurant review
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  • Bone marrow and parsley salad at St John Bone marrow and parsley salad at St John - © Rob Greig

    Bone marrow and parsley salad at St John

    £7.10, 26 St John Street, EC1M 4AY

    In ‘Nose To Tail Eating’, St John’s cookbook, chef-proprietor Fergus Henderson suggests you ask your butcher to hold back a calf’s leg for you if you’re in the mood for bone marrow. We think it’s better to let someone else do the legwork, and head for the dining room of St John instead. Here, against a cool, clinical backdrop, you’ll be served up the just-roasted marrow, still in the bone, and invited to scoop out the translucent contents, spread it on grilled toast and season it to taste. The relish-like parsley, capers and shallot salad cutting through the intensely meaty richness will refresh you enough to allow seconds. And thirds.

    Read St John restaurant review
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Users say

2 comments
JOSE G.
JOSE G.

EXCELENTE INFORMACION, SALUDOS DE SONORA, MEXICO

Jo
Jo

Oops, I was going to get on my high horse about how discriminatory this was to my vegetarian diet.. until I scrolled to the top and saw it was a 'meat' category. Pfhaha. My bad!