The best new cookbooks
Hungry for food books? Time Out rounds up the best of the bunch.
The Kitchen Diaries II
Nigel Slater, Fourth Estate, £30
There are few food writers who get away with indulgence in the way that Nigel Slater does. His prose is filled with evocative descriptions of nostalgic comfort food that tug at the heartstrings of many a Brit. Even a piece of toast can be the subject of a eulogy.
This latest book is true to form. Compiled from the dog-eared notes he’s taken over the years, ‘The Kitchen Diaries II’ is presented as a chronological collection of ideas, ramblings and recipes. Not just a kitchen aid but something to take to bed and read, if you’re so inclined. One entry could contain an ode to his favourite cast-iron casserole, while another describes a quick-assembly snack he’s made. It’s peppered with beautifully taken pictures.
A tomato fish broth recipe (features on November 28) was, as promised, lively in flavour and delicious. It’s packed with sour slices of gherkin, a tip he picked up in Finland for adding acidity to a dish. Equally irresistible were the pistachio and lemon cookies that appear on the book sleeve – sticky and fragrant with zest.
At £30 ‘The Kitchen Diaries II’ is an undeniable indulgence, but a worthwhile one.
Celia Plender, Time Out London Issue 2200: October 16-22 2012