The Bull Steak Expert
Alys Tomlinson
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Fri May 4 2012
The ‘Steak Expert’ bit is presumably to avoid any confusion with the dozens of pubs called ‘The Bull’. And this Argentinian restaurant ain’t full of it: the South American steak here is expertly cooked on a custom grill.
We tried the rump, which arrived rare as requested, the outside nicely browned yet the interior tender; the meat was full flavoured and well seasoned. Order steak, and that’s all you’ll get. The golden-hued, crisp chips are listed as a side dish, as is the chimichurri sauce (similar to salsa verde).
A steak burger was similarly spartan: no bun, just a patty of moist beef, though this dish did at least come with chips on the side and a slice of cheese on top. The menu’s brief, the grilled meats being the main draw. But other Argentinian specialities are also done well. The empanadas had crisp pastry encasing well-spiced minced beef, or sweetcorn centres that really were sweet. Sweetcorn is also pounded and wrapped in corn husk and grilled to give a surprisingly light side dish. Desserts include the Argentinian version of crème caramel, called flan.
Some other Argentinian restaurants in London have a cult following, are packed to the rafters, have surprisingly high prices (especially for the wines) and will only accept bookings – or even answer the phone – before 5pm. Not so here. The Bull is a simply decorated place, lacks pretensions and was refreshingly quiet on our visit, with solicitous and prompt service.
The Gotan Project soundtrack and simple colour scheme of blood red and black only subtly suggest Argentina; there are no landscapes of the Pampas, and you don’t have a gaucho’s bolas thrust in your face here. But the straightforward cooking is done very well, and as a dining experience it felt relaxed and convivial.
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