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There seems to be no end to the catalogue of pubs Geronimo Inns has identified as in need of a scrub-up. But fair play to the pub group – many of these pimped-up watering holes have gone on to be successful locals. One of the latest on this list of success stories is Kensington’s The Duke of Clarence. The pub is equidistant from South Kensington and Earl’s Court tube stations and pledges its allegiance to this fancy part of town with a new look. The big windows make it light and airy, its pale green walls make the place feel spacious while eclectic decorations are fitted to the walls. Leather furniture on wooden floors give a cosy, comforting feel. And a small fire in the corner turned out to be one of the most popular spots for couples.
Emphasis is on good but expensive food, with beer a secondary concern highlighted by the rather small selection on offer. That said, The Duke’s seasonal ale (which is made by Young’s) was not a bad drop. Meat-based bar snacks – sausage rolls, scotch eggs and scratchings – land around the £4.50 mark, small plates double that and if you’re looking at one of the pub’s signature steaks, your bill for one person could easily be up to £40. And for that price (as good as it was), I’d want to be eating somewhere other than down the pub.
Locals – and it was mainly locals I spied on my visit – seem to have no qualms about dining with the Duke, though. On my mid-Saturday morning visit almost every table had been booked for lunch. And that fancy new look suits this fancy lunchtime crowd no end.