The Grill at the Dorchester
Dorchster Grill Room
Heloise Bergman
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Time Out says
Wed Jul 25 2012
The Dorchester is not under-supplied with impressive dining places, but the Grill offers one of the most distinctively enjoyable experiences of all London’s grand-hotel restaurants. First there’s the look: on top of the approach through the hotel’s magnificent Promenade, the room itself combines the opulent (gilded gates that could have graced a Romanov palace) and the dotty (hoots-mon Scottish-theme decor of tartan seats and giant painted laddies and lassies inspired by a monster shortbread tin). Service is exceptionally attentive without being oppressive. And the food has a very individual refinement.
Trad British classics feature on the menus – a daily roast of Angus beef, game in season – but the intricate, exquisite presentation is never routine. For once, menu descriptions actually undersell their dishes: own-made buffalo cheese, mozzarella-style, with herb mayo, pears and walnuts turned out to be a stunning summer starter, with fresh asparagus and split peas also among the intertwined, sweet-and-fragrant flavours. Roast veal with an almost choucroute-like onion marmalade was similarly full of delicately pleasurable surprises, while strawberry jelly arrived with a fabulously subtle dill mousse. These were both from the set lunch menu, which is remarkable value, although prices rise rapidly once you order a few side dishes or get into the very grand wine list. A meal here is an extravagance, but one you don’t forget.
Special Offers
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Lunch: 3 courses and a glass of wine £27.00
plus half a bottle of water per person. From a set menu. Includes Vat, excludes service.
Offer valid until Jul 22 2013
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Dinner: 3 courses and a glass of champagne £35.00
plus half a bottle of water per person. From a set menu. Champagne is Laurent-Perrier. Includes Vat, excludes service.
Offer valid until Jul 22 2013
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