© Britta Jaschinski
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
On a busy weeknight, the Ledbury has all the relaxed bustle and hum of a hit French brasserie, yet as the international crowd and full reservations book shows, this edge-of-Notting-Hill spot has become a place of pilgrimage for lovers of fine dining.
Chef Brett Graham is arguably Australia’s most successful culinary export, but don’t come expecting wattle table decorations and waiters in shorts – even the east-west fusion that characterised upmarket Australian cooking in the 1990s is almost imperceptible. Yes, there’s Japanese herb shiso in the unmissable signature dish of flame-grilled mackerel with smooth avocado sauce; salted cherry blossom with roast leg and confit breast of pigeon; and kaffir lime in a mango millefeuille. But interesting ways with root veg (celeriac and beetroot baked in ash, for example) are just as typical.
Flavours are thrillingly layered: witness a pre-dessert of olive oil panna cotta with hibiscus-poached peach and sweet cicely granita. Amid such creativity, classic French passionfruit soufflé with Sauternes ice-cream seemed tongue-in-cheek, yet was faultless nevertheless. The intense creamy filling of the vanilla tart was lent an acidic punch with a layer of blackcurrants, while blackcurrant leaf ice-cream added a tempering green note to the plate.
Meat mains are elegantly butch, based on the likes of roebuck, Portland hogget, and cheek and jowl of pork. Wines start at £7 per glass; naturally, the charming sommeliers are happy to suggest wine pairings for each course. You’ll find a good choice of beers too. We finished with Turkey Flat PX sherry, unusually from the Barossa Valley in Australia – but that’s the Ledbury for you: intriguing, classy and quietly Aussie-accented.
The Ledbury 127 Ledbury Road
020 7792 9090
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 7-10pm Sun
Tube: Westbourne Park tube
Set lunch (Tue-Sat) £30 2 courses, £35 3 courses; (Sun) £50 3 courses. Set dinner £80 3 courses; £95 vegetarian tasting menu (£145 incl wine), £105 tasting menu (£155 incl wine)
- 127 Ledbury Road
- 020 7792 9090
- 127 Ledbury Road
- The Ledbury
Food and drink
Eating and drinking facilities. Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Dinner. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Available for hire. Outdoor facilities. Tables outdoors
Meal times. Best for lunch. Drinks. Wine buffs. Hip factor. Eating out. Celebrated chefs. Creative cooking. Fine dining
- Type of event: