The Modern Pantry
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The Modern Pantry
Britta Jaschinski / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Britta Jaschinski / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Alys Tomlinson / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Britta Jaschinski / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Britta Jaschinski / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Ed Marshall / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Tricia de courcy ling
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The Modern Pantry
Alys Tomlinson / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Britta Jaschinski / Time Out
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The Modern Pantry
Britta Jaschinski / Time Out
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The on-plate magic at the Modern Pantry – fabulous ingredients conjured into inventive combinations by Anna Hansen’s very capable kitchen – is beautifully balanced by the calm setting. Spread over two floors, plus some attractive outdoor tables, it’s all lovely clean lines in a gentle colour palette of white and grey, and works equally well for brunch or dinner. Pleasant, engaged staff add to the feel-good vibe, as does the regularly changing aperitif (chilli espresso martini had a delightful kick).
Not every dish works – in kimchee-marinated roast lamb rump, with goat’s curd, samphire, smoked almond and beetroot salad and smoked anchovy dressing, the ingredients fought a losing battle against the dominance of saltiness.
But when they do, the results are glorious. We relished every mouthful of another main: roast persian-spiced poussin with aubergine, currant, red onion and coriander salad, sweetcorn and ginger mash, and neri goma (Japanese sesame paste) cream. Starters of Vietnamese-style peanut soup with coriander pesto, and sweetcorn, date and feta fritters with rose and pomegranate molasses yoghurt were less showy, but flavour-packed nonetheless, though the fritters were a little heavy.
Desserts are less out-there, though even the affogato comes with cinder toffee ice-cream. An excellent range of drinks includes craft beers, a global wine list, cocktails and assorted teas. A great antidote to the jaded London palate.
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