Time Out says
Wed Oct 12 2011
How long would it be, we wondered, before a voguish, speakeasy-style bar and diner – inspired by New York’s Lower East Side, but of the type common to central London – opened in leafy Clapham? Not long, it turned out.
Soon we’ll be able to pop into B&Q to pick up the requisite braided electrical cables, old-school incandescent lightbulbs, white ceramic tiles, reclaimed furniture and Victorian embossed wallpaper to create the look at home.
For now, however, bar owners are having to do the legwork themselves to make their establishments look like dilapidated New York workshops.
They’ve made a fine job of it at The Rookery, down to the ‘portholes’ for natural light, blackboard menus and hipster-styled staff; it looks more on-trend than Gok Wan’s hemlines.
The place has also got what it takes as a bar. The beers on tap include local real ale Sambrook’s Junction (an auburn-coloured bitter), a few Meantime brews and Anchor Steam Beer from San Francisco. There’s also a fridge full of fine bottled ales, a well-stocked back bar of spirits and half a dozen or so wines by the glass.
The menu’s brief, but very modish. A starter of Bath chaps – the cured lower half of pigs’ cheeks – were served hot, with slivers of pigs’ ears, crisply deep-fried (good) with hairs still visible (not so good).
Beetroot, crumbly white cheese, walnuts and well-dressed spinach leaves formed the vegetarian alternative. A main course of duck breast, attractively sliced then served on a borlotti bean stew with a piquant salsa verde, was the best dish.
Puddings included chocolate tart with coffee ice cream, baked rice pudding, and cheese and biscuits.
The Rookery’s a very appealing neighbourhood bar – although, as a place to eat, the service can seem a little brusque at times.
Where it really trumps bars in Soho – or, for that matter, on the Lower East Side – is the west-facing canopied outdoor area, overlooking – albeit across the busy A24 – Clapham Common. Sunday lunch is the one time you can book a table and, on a sunny day, it’s an attractive proposition.
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