Michael Franke / Time Out
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Thu Aug 9 2012
Self-described ‘café-restaurant in the grand European tradition’, the Wolseley is one of London’s premier destination restaurants, as popular for power breakfasts as it is for birthday celebrations. It takes itself seriously (‘no photographs’, memorabilia for sale), but the staff are nice, not just well drilled. The high-ceilinged room is a handsome homage to Viennese coffee houses.
The main menu has Mittel European leanings too (excellent chopped liver and glorious, generous boiled salt beef with light herb dumplings) along with many brasserie classics (note-perfect soufflé suisse, steak frites), crustacea and a dish of the day. One of the quirkier options, mackerel panzanella, was a summery treat, whereas a salad of asparagus, rocket, broad beans and courgettes was mean with the spears and had more unadvertised peas than broad beans.
Most disappointing was the hamburger: so dull it needed pepping up with ketchup and mustard – odd when the steak tartare had been so good. Puddings restored our faith: lushly alcoholic black forest gateau and deliciously tart passionfruit sorbet. Indeed, sweet things are a speciality, and include a splendid array of cakes.
The wine list concentrates on Europe, providing plenty by the glass. Owners Chris Corbin and Jeremy King have built on the Wolseley’s success with the Delaunay and Brasserie Zédel and have more ventures in the pipeline.
The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly
020 7499 6996
- Opening hours:
Breakfast served 7-11.30am Mon-Fri; 8-11.30am Sat, Sun. Lunch served noon-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm Sat, Sun. Tea served 3-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 3.30-5.30pm Sat; 3.30-6.30pm Sun. Dinner served 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat; 5.30-11pm Sun. All-day menu served 11.30am-midnight daily
Tube: Green Park tube
Main courses £6.75-£28.75. Set tea £9.75-£21; £29.75 incl glass of champagne. Cover £2
- 160 Piccadilly
- 020 7499 6996
- 160 Piccadilly
- The Wolseley
Food and drink
Eating and drinking facilities. Bar. Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Brunch. Dinner. Afternoon tea. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms
Meal times. Best for lunch. Best for dinner. Wow factor. Business. Hip factor. People-watching. Romantic
- Type of event: