61 Newington Green
© Helen Cathcart
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Thu Mar 15 2012
It’s easy to see why this little tapas bar has become a local cause célèbre. Located just off Newington Green, this one-time social club was given a makeover by four Stoke Newington residents, and has reopened as a hybrid venue: a tapas restaurant on the ground floor, and performance space and bar in the tiny basement.
Trangallan’s daily-changing menu lists mainly rustic Spanish tapas. A salami board was generously piled with five Spanish meats, including chorizo, jamon (air-dried ham), and a sobrassada – a soft Majorcan ‘sausage’ which tasted of smoked paprika, served in glass jar like paté.
Traditionalists might raise a brow at the ’tortilla 2012’. A modern twist on the Spanish classic, this tortilla was deconstructed and served inside a martini glass: a layer of melting onions, then a layer of potato purée, topped with a runny egg yolk. While the smooth concoction tasted fine, it lacked the melded textures of a traditional tortilla.
Homely dishes such as a hearty stew of tender pork cheeks on a bed of borlotti beans, or pan-fried sea bass with jerusalem artichokes, are more typical and evoke the Spanish table.
Portions are on the generous side, but save some space for the outstanding ‘sweet tapas’ selection. On our visit this included a trio of desserts: smooth chocolate ganache garnished with fleur de sel and olive oil, a sherry glass of refreshing pineapple-basil juice, and a traditional crème caramel.
One of the founders is a former sommelier, and the wine lists reflects this with a good selection of sherry styles by the glass. The table wines cover the new Spanish regions as well as good-value wines such as an Austrian blaufränkisch. There are also some natural wines, including a red vinho verde from Portugal – served chilled in ceramic bowl, it had pleasingly sour cherry notes.
A big glass chandelier hangs over an assemblage of mismatched vintage furniture, which the owners bought at flea-markets. Most items, including the vintage crockery the food comes on, are up for sale. Trangallan’s intimate, candle-lit space makes it a real draw for a date.
Trangallan 61 Newington Green
020 7359 4988
- Opening hours:
Open 6.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat; 12.30-3pm Fri-Sun. Tapas served 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat; 12.30-3pm Fri-Sun
Tube: Canonbury tube/rail or bus 21,73, 341
Tapas £4-£13. Meal for two with drinks and service: £70
- 61 Newington Green
- 020 7359 4988
- 61 Newington Green
Food and drink
Restaurant and bar facilities. Take away. Reservations required. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire. Outdoor facilities. Tables outdoors
- Type of event: