4 The Polygon
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Jun 27 2012
Has Adam Byatt taken his eye off the ball? In 2012, Trinity’s chef/patron opened Bistro Union, a brilliant casual diner on Clapham’s Abbeville Road, but his elegant main restaurant – long a favourite with our reviewers – is showing cracks. On our visit, service was inconsistent, with inattentive juniors undermining the warmth and can-do attitude of their more experienced colleagues.
The kitchen fared better, delivering pretty plates of modern Anglo-French cooking. We enjoyed an intricate starter of charred mackerel with a parcel of cucumber-wrapped shrimp and a light oyster mayonnaise. Chunky rhubarb and apple crumble in a ramekin showed that simplicity is also a forte. In between, however, crisp-skinned pollack with soft, fleshy mussels and sautéed baby leeks was overwhelmed by an excess of sea-salty samphire.
Heavy, oily sourdough from the bread basket was similarly disappointing. Perhaps most galling, though, was that breads, a pre-starter of radishes and cod roe, and filtered tap water – all of which came across as ‘nice touches’ – appeared on our bill as a £3 cover charge, a disingenuous practice we thought had disappeared with the ark. We hope Trinity (still popular with locals) returns to its glory days soon.
Trinity 4 The Polygon
020 7622 1199
- Opening hours:
Lunch served 12.30-2.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-2pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat
Tube: Clapham Common tube
Main courses £17-£28. Set lunch (Tue-Sat) £22 2 courses, £27 3 courses. Set meal (Tue-Sat) £50 tasting menu (£80 incl wine).
- 4 The Polygon
- 020 7622 1199
- 4 The Polygon
Food and drink
Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Lunch. Dinner. Sunday lunch. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Available for hire
Meal times. Best for Sunday lunch. Going in a group. Eating out. Celebrated chefs. Fine dining. Romantic
- Type of event: