Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Wed Aug 1 2012
Jamie Oliver’s latest enterprise triangulates three strong London trends: sharing plates, British sourcing and, on the ground floor, casual bar-counter service. The decor, upstairs and down, is graffiti pop art, the service is engaged and informative, and everything’s done with good humour – for instance, instead of being offered extra toppings, you’re invited to ‘pimp’ your pizza. The hits of our meal were ‘Juliette flatbread pizza’ – a margherita, but made with westcombe jacks and lincolnshire poacher, the muscularity of the cheese neatly offset by lemon thyme and a well-judged passata – and lightly battered garlic mushrooms – snappy to the tooth, but perfectly moist within. There were, however, too many misses. Smoky chicken liver was otherwise short of flavour, and came with soldiers that contrived to be both burnt and floppy, while crunchy ‘by-catch fish fingers’ tasted surprisingly bland. An intriguing side dish of purple sprouting broccoli had its crushed hazelnuts, bits of bacon and roast garlic in all the wrong proportions, but a sticky treacle tart with (slightly) orange soured cream brought things to a decent conclusion. While the broad range of drinks (from beer to ‘English kir’) shows imagination, there’s insufficient attention to detail just yet.
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