Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Fri May 25 2012
Billed as London’s oldest surviving Indian restaurant (established 1926), Veeraswamy is accessed by a lift that opens into the light, airy, first-floor dining area. It’s an elegant space decorated with coloured glass shades, silvery grilles, crisp table linen, and black and white photographs. Owners, the Panjabi sisters, also oversee Amaya, Chutney Mary and the Masala Zone chain.
The northern Indian dish of paneer labadar tikka (a tandoori spin on a sandwich) is here made with sliced fresh cheese filled with mint and toasted cumin chutney before being seared in the tandoor. We loved the way its wispy smoky crust yielded to the soft paneer within. Equally impressive, South Indian-style scallops were partnered by a tasty moilee sauce made from softened shallots, mustard, coconut cream and astringent ginger. Staying in the southern region, fruity pineapple curry, spiked with chilli, popped mustard seeds and peppery curry leaves, made a marvellous match with lemon-drenched rice. Only two side orders didn’t hit the high notes; our nans were greasy, and an aubergine mash too salty. Service, however, was as smooth as Indian silk. Ask for a table by the window for a splendid view of bustling Regent Street below.
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