Yashin Sushi

Yashin's motto - 'without soy sauce… but if you want to' - has been lauded and ridiculed in equal measure. We welcome the absence of soy sauce, which here is made redundant by the extraordinary ways in which itamae (sushi chefs) Shinya Ikeda and Yasuhiro Mineno design their creations.

Individual seasonings and garnishes are paired with each piece to bring out the flavours of the seafood or meat; some pieces are lightly blowtorched, resulting in contrasting textures and a smoky flavour. Each meticulously crafted morsel had its own merits, whether it was yellowtail with black pepper, or torched fatty tuna with a dollop of fresh wasabi. But well-seasoned fish is only half of the equation: the consistently well-formed, supple rice completes the formula for perfect nigiri.

The appetisers - intensely flavoured miso soups, fresh oysters, own-made tofu and various carpaccio dishes (fish, beef) - make excellent supplements to the sushi. High-quality Japanese teas are a relative steal at £1-£1.40 a cup, but saké buffs will also appreciate the option of 'tasters', featuring three premium sakés served (weirdly) in test tubes.

The design of dark green tiles, hanging lights and parquet floor is reminiscent of a kitsch pie and mash shop; the coveted seats are at the wooden counter, in front of the chefs, though there's also a small basement room. A meal at Yashin is incredibly expensive - the sushi set meals range from £30 for nine pieces to £60 for 15 - but it's worth saving up for an unbeatable experience. It's no surprise then that Yashin won the Time Out Eating & Drinking Award for Best Sushi Bar in 2011.