Gem

This Kurdish restaurant is less pretentious than much of the competition on Upper Street and remains popular. The decoration is agricultural, with authentic Kurdish farm implements suspended from walls and ceiling. Our small portion of complimentary stuffed qatme bread was as outstanding as ever. Starters of moist mücver courgette fritters were tasty, if slightly oily. Kısır was good, but lacked the piquant freshness that we've previously relished here. In contrast, a main course of bıldırcın was above reproach: wonderfully tender and flavoursome grilled quail with a fresh chopped salad. Patlıcan kebab was enjoyable too, if slightly bland. There are six vegetarian main courses, most based on aubergine. A small portion of honeyed baklava with ice-cream made the ideal finish. Gem's local vibe and attentive service are to be cherished, but the cooking this time wasn't as consistently excellent as it has been on previous visits. The restaurant's generally deserved success, however, has led to it opening a second branch (which has a more contemporary decor) near Clapham Common.